Alfred Wainwright’s ‘Holy Grail’

Found at Bolton-on-Swale

Article by Shane Wilkinson

In 1987, during a moment of sudden reverence for A. Wainwright on his 80th birthday, I resolved to collect all his guidebooks as soon as possible. At that time, I was unaware of the ensuing saga that followed my purchase of Wainwright’s A Coast to Coast Walk guidebook.

Filming took place in the Spring of 1989 to record this classic journey, courtesy of BBC Producer Richard Else. The subsequent screening on national television truly brought Wainwright’s own route to life, with its creator ever-present.

Sadly, the master fellwanderer passed away on 20 January 1991. In honour of the hero, I ascended Haystacks on 21 April to pay respects at Innominate Tarn, just a month after AW’s ashes had been scattered there by his wife, Betty.

Consequently, a variety of factors all came together. Haystacks, situated near the Coast to Coast Walk, became even more significant to me after I was enthralled by both studying the guidebook and watching the Coast to Coast Walk TV series. I considered traversing the whole distance, fulfilling an adventurous ambition while celebrating the influence of such a remarkable writer and artist.

So, within four months, Haystacks was seen again on 17 August 1991, during my second day crossing from Ennerdale to Honister and Borrowdale. On 26 August, the eleventh day, a significant highlight of the entire venture occurred. 

Bolton-on-Swale is a tranquil place that precedes the notorious, less well-regarded section to follow: the Vale of Mowbray. Throughout the following long road section towards Danby Wiske, I had good reason to be floating along with a heart filled with sheer joy.

Upon arriving at Bolton-on-Swale, I was impressed by the longevity of Henry Jenkins at St. Mary’s Church, believed to have lived to 169 years old; it seemed fitting to sign the visitors’ book. After I had duly performed this task, I realised that Wainwright did the same, as I remembered the Coast to Coast Walk television episode featuring the church. Incidentally, it’s well-known as the one and only time that AW ever appears on screen without his glasses on!

Thankfully, I arrived at the church two years after Wainwright’s visit, so it was very fortunate indeed that both of our signatures appeared in the same book.

Moving forward to 2019, I first contacted Chris Butterfield to mention the 30th anniversary of AW’s book signing at Bolton-on-Swale and my association with it. But there and then, a seed had been planted in our thoughts, as we were equally intrigued by the fate of that elusive visitor’s book. 

Nobody else but the recently appointed ‘Wainwright Archivist’ could be more suitable for the duty of finding this out and resolving the mystery after three decades.

I took a day off work to celebrate my own 30th anniversary by returning to St Mary’s Church (for only the second time) on 26 August 2021. It was a sensational experience to be back again, full of magical memories. Unfortunately, there was no news concerning the whereabouts of the iconic visitors’ book. 

However, during the Summer of 2023, the most pleasurable news came to my attention. An unexpected message from Chris revealed that his persistence had paid off, and the long-lost treasure had finally been located. I immediately replied with heartfelt thanks for reminding the church of its unique connections to the Wainwright and Coast to Coast Walks.

It was appropriate that Andrew Nichol received a very well-deserved surprise viewing and the privilege of being an early guest to witness the newly discovered Wainwright signature from April 1989. Soon after, a wonderful image of AW’s close friend and book publisher appeared on the Alfred Wainwright Books & Memorabilia Facebook Group. At this supreme moment, I was delighted to see the visitors’ book for the first time.

The exciting revelation at St Mary’s church turned out to be incredibly profound (combined with Andrew’s passionate pilgrimage to Haystacks in the Autumn of 2023). It meant that, with Chris’ intervention, he had achieved both of these amazing feats, each spanning over 30 years to yield remarkable results.

Finally, in 2024, an opportunity arose for the ‘Wainwright archivist’ to undertake yet another activity of over 30 years’ duration. Bolton-on-Swale was again the location, with St Mary’s Church at the centre of attention. I attended a deeply moving event that was truly unforgettable.

On 13 July, amid huge anticipation, the congregation gathered for Chris’s first-ever talk inside a place of worship. It was very apt early on to see Wainwright appear at the church and sign the visitors’ book (from the 1989 Coast to Coast Walk TV programme).

Later, Andrew Nichol was seen acknowledging that same book for himself (after its recent discovery in 2023). Sadly, Andrew passed away earlier in the year, and a touching tribute film was also shown at the event. All proceeds from the day went to support the church and the Swaledale Mountain Rescue Team.

With all this drama, emotions were already running high, and they would only build up even more as the eagerly anticipated moment was about to take place. The actual visitors’ book was on display for an awe-inspiring ‘grand finale’ to proceedings, already revealing Wainwright’s signature in all its glory.

Thirty-three years had passed since I last looked at this cherished handwriting, and then the time had arrived to search for my own entry. Priscilla Butterfield did that honour by wearing protective gloves as she turned over the pages with helpful assistance. Intense trepidation followed as the date of 26 August 1991 approached —and upon making that thrilling discovery, I heartily thanked Chris for making this long-awaited dream a reality.

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I did not realise at the time the blog was published that it would lead to our supreme meeting with Richard Else. He was giving a talk at The Armitt, Ambleside, in support of the Wainwright exhibition, which ran throughout 2025. This would make an icing-on-the-cake finish to the story, rounding it all off with an outstanding grand finale. Priscilla also took a fantastic photo of the three of us at the exhibition, where we are all gathered at the visitors’ book on display.